Nov 2015 - Week 2

St Paul's Bay viewed from the Selman Palace

Monday 9th to Sunday 15th November 2015

Monday I drove to the Blue Grotto for the first time. The route from us is somewhat tortuous with absolutely terrible road surfaces, which is why I haven’t driven it previously. As I suspected, what is a divers’ paradise thanks to the impossibly clear blue water is spoiled when viewed from the shore because of the hordes of tourists and the dozen or so tour boats blocking the views. Steep, rubble strewn cliffs fall down to the sea where there is a deep inlet begging to be swam in. Along the cliffs, accessible only from the sea, are caves and inlets to be explored.

The car park is set near the cliff top so you have to clamber down a narrow road, paths and rough stone steps to reach the water. Along the way stalls are set up selling I Love Malta t-shirts and other tourist tat. There is also a guy there with three birds of prey which you can take a photo of for a small “donation”. There are about half a dozen cafes-come-restaurants to choose from and I stopped at one for a cappuccino. It would have been pretty good except it had cinnamon sprinkled on top which is never a good idea.

I drove on past the airport where I saw a workman with a long handled grabber picking up a dead hedgehog. There are lots of road signs here asking drivers to watch out for hedgehogs but that is the first time I have seen one. I stopped at Lidl – another first – but wasn’t impressed. It seemed to have a lot of stock but not much choice.

For dinner I had pan fried salmon with Indian spices and honey, a real favourite of mine. I served it with a cashew nut and vegetable pilaf.

Tuesday the weather was perfect. I took a couple of hours off and drove to Mellieha from where I took the country road to Anchor Bay. It’s not long but it is one of the most spectacular routes in Malta with views down across unspoiled countryside to the sea and Gozo beyond. From Anchor Bay I travelled across country to Ghardira Bay where I noticed one woman standing waist deep in the sea; she must have been desperate to go! I carried on north to Armier Bay. The sea is incredibly clear and colourful there. I sat in the warm sun for an hour or so reading a book and sipping a cappuccino (of course). There was a number of people sunbathing and even a few hardy souls in the sea. They must be tourists; it’s far too cold for us locals.

Tonight was my last night alone before Sam comes home, so for dinner I had pork chops. And yes, they were amazing as always.

Wednesday Sam returned home – yippee! Rather than shopping and cooking we went to Miracles for pizzas. They weren’t very good on this occasion, too doughy and too much cheese. We told the waitress and she told the chef and we were given free beer!

Thursday we met Chris and Tina at Ghardia Beach. Sam went swimming with them. They must be mad; it’s far too cold for that now, despite their protestations to the contrary. I sat on the terrace at Munchies soaking up the sun and the views. The others joined me once they had dried off a little. Munchies is very pleasant. It has a beach terrace right on the water. In summer they set up a blue pontoon leading out to sea from the terrace from where you can do all sorts of water sports. All that is gone now so it is a very peaceful spot to relax for an hour or two. Upstairs, at street level, there is another outside terrace and an indoor restaurant which are open for lunch and dinner. For dinner I made our first beef casserole of the season. It feels like it is time to start have winter dishes even if it is still 30° plus every day!

Friday I bought a present for Sam to give to me at Christmas! At least that way you know you’ll get what you want. I had another good Italian lesson. For dinner we had left over beef casserole with roasted carrots and potatoes.

Saturday I hiked around the ridge across the bay from us. I drove to the Selman Palace and walked from there down towards the sea behind Mellieha. The path is mostly a roughly paved single track road and along the way there are information boards explaining what is to be seen. The main thing I took away from it is that the whole thing was 75% paid for by the European Union! After retracing my steps I hiked along the ridge to the abandoned military barracks. This is wine growing country. It is also hunting country and the sound of gunfire filled the air. It is slightly odd seeing guys walking around openly carrying guns. The sun was blisteringly hot, as if summer had returned, so I didn’t stay out too long.

In the evening we went to Mareluna in Sliema with Chris, Tina and Lorainne. We had a great evening with good food and good company. The service was poor though, and I will no doubt mention that in my review!

Sunday apart from a short walk we stayed in. Pizzas for dinner.